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Griffith Park, Wednesday Morning

Wednesday morning, 8am. A 6 mile weekday trail run through Griffith Park. Single-track & hills, training for AC100

Desert: Calico 50K, Joshua Tree, Salvation Mountain.

Joshua Tree

I haven’t posted in a while. This site is about to undergo a major overhaul. I’ve gotten so dissatisfied with this presentation that I haven’t been feeling like adding any more to it. Of course, I’m tinkering far too much with the new design to ever get it finished, plus busy working on a bunch of other stuff, like finishing a gallery of AC100 photos from last year, before this year’s race begins, or working on a couple of videos, not to mention my day job, a relationship, and AC100 training…

It’s a full life for a minimalist. I’m enjoying it.

The last day of 2011 was spent down at Salvation Mountain.

New Years Eve was spent in 29 Palms, and New Years Day Kista and I took a run through Joshua Tree.

At this exact moment, my friend and running partner Maggie Beach is running Brazil 135, which is the Brazilian version of Badwater. She’s 51.5 miles in to the race, and in 7th place overall.

This weekend, Kista and I will be back in the desert running the Calico 50K, the first ultra for each of us, hers in 2008 and mine last year.

Update: It’s pissing down rain here in LA, and apparently the same is going on the desert. Tomorrow it’s supposed to be cold and hopefully not too muddy. Meanwhile, Brazil135 is at 31 hours. 3 runners have finished, including the first place female, Deborah Simas of Brazil. Maggie is in 5th place overall, second place female, with 130 miles behind her and 5 miles still to go. Pretty f*cking amazing.

Christmas Morning

Santa Legs

Santa Legs

Christmas morning, Elysian Park. A 4 mile run with Kista while the turkey roasted in the oven. Beautiful morning, low 70s, lots of folks out walking their dogs, lots of dogs in new Christmas sweaters. Kids driving a pink Barbie SUV through the grass below.

Mt. Lukens, April Fog

Back in April I took my first run up Mt. Lukens with Maggie Beach and the gang, soon to become The Delicate Little Flowers trail running club. Here is a little chunk of video from that run.

Brasil 135

Maggie Beach & crew, last mile

Maggie Beach & crew, last mile of Western States 100

My friend and running partner Maggie Beach, who, you can see, is no slouch, has been accepted to run Brasil 135, a 135 mile footrace through the mountains of Brazil; inspired by, reputed to be as difficult as, and granting admission for the finishers to Badwater 135, the legendary run through Death Valley to Whitney Portal on the way up Mt. Whitney (in other words from the lowest place in the USA to the entrance to the highest place on the continental USA).

There are only a handful of Americans running Brazil 135, and only one other American woman (out of 12 women in all) entered into the 48 hour race. (There is also a 60 hour race). Like Badwater, crews are especially important for Brazil 135. Brazil is a long, long ways from La Crescenta. Getting a crew there is not cheap. Some friends are hosting a Brazilian dinner fundraiser, and we’re also taking donations. Anyone interested in helping the cause can donate here or using the Paypal button below:

Click below to make a donation in the amount of your choice:

map of Brazil 135

Chimera 100

Cold, wet, rocky, and long. We gathered at the starting line, cold, foggy, looking more like refugees than runners. Race director Steve Harvey (who deserves great praise for all of his events) mercifully delayed the start by about 15 minutes so that it would be light when we set out for the initial loop, fun, sometimes technical singletrack, a 10 mile out-and-back to Chiquita Falls for the 100K runners, and a 20 mile out-and-back through Chiquita to Candy Store for the 100 mile runners. I found myself stuck behind a pair of runners going slower than I would’ve liked, and resisted the urge to pass, figuring this would help me not bust out too fast so that I might have something left for the end, or at least for the middle.

We came back through Blue Jay. My crew/pacer Maggie told me she’d found a ride out to Silverado Canyon, which was great news. (At one point, she was considering catching a ride to another station and then running to Silverado – about 15 miles). I put on my Nathan vest and headed out. For the first couple of miles up to Trabuco Trail Head I ran with a guy in the navy who’d just returned to the States from Japan. He’d driven up that morning without an entry, hoping that there’d be enough no-shows for him to get in.

George Velasco was working Trabuco Trail head aid station along with Keira Henninger. He offered advice and instruction for the stretch down through Holy Jim Canyon. Rough, rocky, and slick with mud, he said, and it was, but it was also a beautiful stretch of trail and probably the last bit of terrain I really enjoyed running.

Somewhere along this stretch, I encountered a runner from Montana whose knee was bothering her. I could see a scar from past surgery. She was heading back up to the Trabuco Trail Head aid station to drop. We talked for a few minutes on the trail, and I convinced her to keep going. People have talked me out of dropping in a few races, and it was time for me to repay the favor. We ran gently and talked for about 5 miles, and then she pulled ahead coming into Holy Jim Canyon aid station. I caught up with her briefly a few miles later on the long climb up to Santiago, but when she pulled ahead again it was for keeps. I hope she finished strong and did well.

From Holy Jim Canyon came a long, steep climb, some of it singletrack with plenty of switchbacks, and some of it rocky fireroad, to the Bear Springs aid station (23.5 mile mark) to the top of Santiago Peak. Donn Ozaki was working at the Bear Springs. It was there that I began fueling myself with chicken noodle soup. We talked briefly about Kista’s Javelina Jundred last weekend, and then I headed out and still up, to the top of Santiago Peak, which was shrouded in fog, cold and wet.

From Santiago Peak it was downhill to Maple Springs aid station, and the drop bags. As I was leaving Maple Springs, the first 100 mile runner came in, at 50 miles to my 30. He spent next to no time at the aid station and passed me just a few minutes later, at the beginning of a 7 mile long downhill to Silverado Canyon. About 20 minutes later, Fabrice Hardel passed me, second place in the 100 miles. Fabrice would go on to win Chimera 100m with a time well under 19 hours, destroying the old course record.

By Maple Springs it seems the 100K had sorted itself out. With the exception of Ben Gaetos about 10 miles further, I did not see another 100K runner the rest of the race.

I was cheered by name as I came in to Silverado. My running partner and pacer Maggie Beach had told them all about me, although there isn’t really much to tell. Pink was the color of the day down at Silverado. Maggie was worried I was going to be in a bad mood having run a few miles of pavement, and normally that would be true, but the rocky fireroads were so rough on my feet that the pavement was a blessing. Silverado Canyon is beautiful. Rangers drove by and cheered me on.

The aid stations and volunteers deserve special mention here. They were extraordinary, and on a cold, wet, and long day like this, the aid stations were less about seeing us on to the next stop and more about providing a nice, warm, friendly sanctuary, especially for middle-of-the-pack runners like me. It was great seeing people I know, like George Velasco, Donn Ozaki, and race director Keira Henninger (also a great runner), but all the volunteers at all the aid stations were wonderful and supportive and there is no way I could’ve pulled this off without them. I cannot imagine getting through the cold, dark, wet, foggy night without my pacer and without the folks at the aid stations. I ran Chimera fueled almost exclusively by chicken noodle soup, and it worked.

Who knew a cheap piece of plastic could be such a life saver? Kista had given me a couple of basically disposable plastic rain ponchos. One of the criticisms runners have against these ponchos is that they do not breathe, basically creating a little sauna inside. What we discovered was that on a cold, windy day, this sauna is a very welcome thing.

From Silverado Canyon to Bedford Peak was a fairly steep singletrack uphill. Maggie did recon earlier in the day, and said it was nothing I hadn’t encountered many times before. This was true, except that my legs had about 40 miles and 12,000 feet on climbing on them, so it was a bit of a challenge. We came out of Bedford Peak aid station and realized we were freezing. The ponchos saved us, keeping the warmth in and the wind out. Maggie had some chemical handwarmers we each shoved inside our gloves. Whoever invented those things is my new hero. (I hope he or she wasn’t a nazi or anything). Misting rain, cold winds, even a little bit of snow…

We walked/ran for about 5 miles with Ben Gaetos between Bedford Peak and Maple Springs. Aside from Ben, I had not seen (and would not see) another 100K runner on the road after the first stop at Maple Springs.

I talked briefly to a 100 mile runner at Maple Springs. He looked spent. I realized that he was coming through for the first time, just at the midway point in his race. One of the volunteers said he’d just made the cut-off.

As we continued on to Upper Holy Jim – a return trip to the top of Santiago Peak – we crossed paths with a number of 100 mile runners who had yet to make it to the midway point. There was probably 3 or 4 batches of them, and I imagine all were pulled from the race at Maple Springs. I felt bad for them, but I was also a tiny bit envious. It was cold, windy, and wet. There was snow, and thick fog. My feet were starting to hurt and it occurred to me that worse things could happen than being pulled from the race, especially for some of the folks in the last batch of 100 mile runners who were still in singlets while we were freezing with our hats and gloves and jackets and ponchos.

Somewhere along the line we lost Ben. We pulled ahead of him, but at some point later on he must’ve passed us at an aid station because he was already at Blue Jay when we finished. The only runner we saw was 100 mile third place finisher Tomokazu Ihara, who passed us twice, once shortly after dark and the second time near the finish.

My feet we aching. The rocks did me in. The arch on my left foot was increasingly tender. At first I merely noted it, as I’d never had a pain there before; it did not seem like it would have much impact on the run. By the 54 mile mark it was getting serious, and by Horsethief just walking was an issue and I was not sure I’d be able to finish.

I was also getting tired of going up hill. It seemed to me that physics dictated that eventually we would be done going up and have to come back down again. Apparently there’s a different kind of physics at work in the middle of the night in the Saddleback Mountains. Optimistic folks at aid stations kept saying “It’s just rolling hills from here on out”. What I discovered is rolling means sharply up for 1 -2 miles, followed by gently up, followed by a medium up, followed by more steep up, and then 20 yards of flat before it goes up again.

My foot got a painful massage at Horsethief. We took the insole out of my left shoe because the arch support was not helping now that everything in the arch was swollen and tender. This was enough to get me running again.

I hooted with delight when we hit the pavement, and one mile to go to the finish. I noticed that the pavement seemed rougher than I remembered but attributed that to tender feet and didn’t follow the thought through. If I had, I’d've realized that we were not on the same road I’d gone out on, and I might have noticed the turn-off onto singletrack. Instead, we got lost in the last mile, took the road until it ended, and then doubled back until we found the marked turn, and then the finish.

I have no idea what my time was, or where I placed. Somewhere in the middle, I suspect. The results aren’t yet posted. I think a number of people dropped. It was slow and painful, and it was also possibly the most gratifying race I’ve done. Just to finish is good enough.

Javelina Jundred

Kista Cook, Inspiration Pt., 6:22am

Kista Cook, AC100, Inspiration Pt., 6:22am

This weekend Kista Cook is running Javelina Jundred in Arizona. It’s her second 100 miler this year; Nanny Goat was the first. Like most runners, she’s camping at start. She says “You should see all the tents. Some are off the hook condos.” Her dad and her sister are crewing her, and their outifts have a NASCAR theme which seems to be impressing the locals who don’t know anything about JJ100 but do know about a big NASCAR event also taking place in Scottsdale this weekend. They think Team Cook are crewing some driver.

I’m wishing her (and all others running JJ100) the best. Anyone who wants to follow the race can do here: https://s3.amazonaws.com/Aravaipa/Ultracast.htm.

Mt. Lukens 3-peat.

Mt. Lukens summit

Mt. Lukens summit

46 miles. 11,650′ of climbing. 14 hours. This is one of those runs that ends up being really demoralizing.

The original plan was a good strong charge up Mt. Lukens, repeat 2 more times. As we started, I just didn’t have it in me. The first loop – 14.25 miles, 7.12 and 3,641 feet of climbing up, and then the same back down – was painful. Recent speedwork had left my bad foot swollen and tender, and the metatarsalgia – which is the fancy word for fucked-up-in-a-general-way toe – was bad. I declared myself officially injured at the summit. The climb back down was rough.

I don’t particularly like feeling like a pussy, and I was beating myself up pretty badly for this. I also don’t like having witnesses to my being a pussy, and as we reached the bottom I’d concluded that I was going to need to seriously scale back my Chimera crew. There’s no rationality behind it – I sure none of my friends would be anything but supportive – but I couldn’t bear the thought of having them witness my failure. If I’m going to have to live up to that “you’ll never amount to anything” / “you’ll never be half the man your father was” stuff, I’d rather do it out of sight.

Pier was waiting at the bottom with sandwiches, which was wonderful of her, since she was unable to run. Luis was only up for one lap and he and Pier left. Maggie and I began the second lap.

The second lap went better than the first. I’d taken a couple of advil, and my foot received a needed massage at the pillbox, halfway up. It was not a fast climb, but much stronger than the first.

Darkness hit once we reached the pillbox on the third climb. There were birds – it looked like the same one, actually, a baby owl from what we could tell, who just kept flying awkwardly up the hill every time we passed. We passed him at least 6 times. About 2/3 of the way up, we encountered a guy coming down – Drew, he said – who had finished ac100 this year for the first time. Maggie thought she recognized his voice. We stopped and chatted for a bit. He said the only people he ever meets up on the trails at night are ac100 runners. It makes sense. It’s also odd that in a race with only 71 finishers this year we should keep running in them in a city/urban mass that has some 6 million folks.

The climb down was slow. It was dark, the trail is rocky and rutted in spots, and trying to charge down it was only going to lead to bad spills. Both of us have been getting a bit too close to the ground this summer.

The pillbox is the landmark for the turnoff, which is a hard right, about 4 miles down the trail. Because it’s a hard right, it’s easy to run right past the turn, and with the pillbox off the trail and out of flashlight range, missing the turn off is exactly what we did.

The trail narrowed and became steeper than either of us remembered. We were starting to wonder when we would hit the pillbox. Surely it must be just around the bend. We came on a mailbox and a chained-off bit of fire road. We both noted that we’d never seen the mailbox before. We ran a little further. It’s hard to see in the dark, even with flashlights. Landmarks like hills are only the vaguest of silhouettes against a night sky. We concluded we were lost.

We turned around and headed back up the mountain. The good news was that in this direction, the turnoff would present itself as a fork in the trail, so it would be much harder to miss than on the way down. The bad news was “where the f*ck is it?” The other good news was that if it didn’t turn up soon we could just turn around and head back down the trail, which looked as though it would take us to the 2, just above the city, and from there we could maybe call Maggie’s husband Bob. The bad news is Bob doesn’t get cell reception in the house, and might not receive the call. The good news is we spotted the fork, and then could just barely make out the pillbox with our flashlights.

We headed back down the right trail, relieved. There was a nice, almost hot breeze that had been blowing – maybe a Santa Ana was coming in – which kept the temperatures comfortable. It was also getting near 10pm, and we’d been out on the trails and on our feet for 14 hours.

I pretty much blamed myself for this debacle. I’d been slow and sore and it was taking a long f*cking time – much too long. Maggie was actually in a bad enough mood by this time to agree. We discussed Chimera. The discussion was basically should I drop altogether or could I deal with a DNF? And then we remembered the 100K option. The conclusion was to drop down to the 100K, and that would also solve the crew problem – I would not need much of a crew for a 100K. A 100K should be more than doable – I’ve run that distance before, albeit not on as hard a course as Chimera. We’ll find another 100 miler for me to do before ac100 in July.

Some runs just don’t go well, but when that drags on for 46 miles, it’s just f*cked up. The next morning, my legs are sore, and I am still disappointed in myself for a really miserable run.

Mt. Lukens Road, April 2011

Mt. Lukens Road, foggy morning, April 2011

Chicken Farm

Ernest feeds the chickens, Alberta 1923

Ernest Andrews reluctantly feeding chickens at the Bar U Ranch, Pekisko, Alberta, 1923

When I was 6 years old we moved out to a 20 acre spread in Springbank, a rural area west of Calgary, Alberta, towards the foothills of the Rocky Mountains.

The nearest kid my age was Billy Young, who lived about a mile away by field, or 2 miles by road.

Billy was a strange gap toothed kid. He didn’t smell all that good. His folks owned a chicken farm – an egg farm, really – a huge, long barn structure full of chickens in cages laying eggs, with streams of chicken shit and piss underneath. Every so often the shit and piss would be washed outside, forming a little pond. Billy had a home-made skiff; he would stand on it with a big smile and use a stick to push himself across the pond of shit.

I was on the steps one day watching Billy sailing through the shit pond when his little curly haired sister Shirley scampered up and asked “Do you know why I like bugs?” “No,” I said. “Because they crunch when I step on them.” Shirley flashed a creepy little sadistic grin while she demonstrated by grinding down a beetle with her bare foot. I could hear it crunch.

It was hard to find good help at the chicken farm. Nobody really wants to work under those conditions, I guess, so all they had was a succession of just-out-of-jail, prison, or reform school surly young criminals who lived in a shack on premises and apparently weren’t making much beyond room-and-board. I was fascinated with these guys – the whole outlaw thing seemed very Clint Eastwood to me, except that this was a modern day chicken farm and not the desert in some spaghetti western. I wanted to know more about this crime stuff so I tried to talk to some of the chicken farm hands but they really weren’t interested. Their anger was a bit frightening, so I didn’t push it.

There was a poor family living downwind of the chicken farm in a small little farmhouse that wasn’t very well ventilated. I remember their property being especially barren. They would complain bitterly on hot summer days when the overpowering stench from the shit pond would drift down the hill on a hot breeze and pool in the valley air. But they were poor people, maybe didn’t even own their land, and the Youngs were related to almost all the farmers surrounding them. The poor family didn’t get much sympathy. Nevertheless, some sort of authorities got involved and the Youngs were forced to clean things up a bit.

The Youngs were Nazarites – members of the Church of the Nazarene – which was kind of big in the area. There’s something about prairie vastness that lends itself to obscure fundamentalist and evangelical religions.

Billy was always inviting me to some kind of Church function. He made it sound a lot like boyscouts. My parents were wary of letting me go to some sort of religious cult thing – they were fairly adamant aetheists, although not dogmatic about it – prairie stoicism kind of precludes the passion required of true atheist dogma – their atheism was a backdoor atheism that came out of skepticism rather than belief.

I pressured my parents, and, relunctantly, they finally gave in. It was a weekday night. I went with the Youngs to the Nazarene Church. The adults went off one way, and the kids were separated and went off in groups by age and gender. I ended up playing basketball.

I was a new kid, and maybe a potential recruit. My play was praised undeservedly, and when the game was over I was given a special prize: a worn out old volleyball.

My parents were waiting when I got home. They wanted to make sure that I wasn’t carting in a bunch of religious texts or whatever. I showed them my deflated volleyball. We pumped it full of air but by the next morning, it was soft again. For all the great enthusiasm of the Nazarenes, the prize was kind of pathetic.

Inappropriate enthusiasm with a soft, old, worn-out & deflated pay-off: this came to symbolize pretty much all religion for me, or at least milquetoast American Christianity. You can edge it up with hatred borne of ignorance and fear, but in the end it’s still old, worn out, and leaky.

Eaton Canyon

Eaton Canyon

Mt. Wilson was kind of a home-away-from-home this summer.

The Mt. Wilson Observatory, parking lot, and cafe at the top of Mt. Wilson will be closing in a few weeks, and won’t open again until April. We took another run up the tollroad this Sunday, lunch at the Cosmic Cafe and then back down. Baby rattlesnakes. Super cute, but super venomous too. They didn’t really have the threatening thing down yet – I guess baby reptiles are like any other babies – not really clear on what’s going on around them, not yet convinced that all of existence is a threat. These rattlers just slithered across the toll road as quickly as possible while we stood over and watched.

I’ve all sorts of photos from the summer that haven’t yet made it into a post. It was a great summer.

Kista, San Gabriel River

Kista, San Gabriel River

Zen vs. Oblivion

Mt. Lukens - trees in fog - April 2011

Mt. Lukens - trees in fog - April 2011

I recently read someone describe himself as “an Ultra runner trying for Zen oblivion.”

There seems to be this common misconception about Buddhist meditation as escapism – that it will somehow carry you away as if you were on some sort of cosmic high – completely apart from and oblivious to the world around you. That’s completely backwards.

Meditation, and Buddhism, is not intended to be some sort of cheap vacation from reality, like being on dope or watching TV. Rather than an escape from the here-and-now, it is an immersion into it.

Oblivion is defined as “The state of being unaware or unconscious of what is happening.”

Buddhism seeks the opposite.

Shinzen Young, (who is basically my “grandteacher”, or my old teacher’s teacher), summarizes it below by quoting Hsiao Chih-Kuan by Master Tien-T’ai, from 6th Century China:

“There are many paths for entering the reality of Nirvana, but in essence they are all contained with two practices: stopping and seeing.

Stopping is the primary gate for overcoming the bonds of compulsiveness. Seeing is the essential requisite for ending confusion.

Stopping is the wholesome resource that nurtures the mind. Seeing is the marvelous art which fosters intuitive understanding.

Stopping is the effective cause of attaining concentrative repose. Seeing is the very basis of enlightened wisdom.

A person who attains both concentration and wisdom has all the requisites for self-help and for helping others… It should be known, then, that these two techniques are like the two wheels of a chariot, the two wings of a bird. If their practice is lopsided, you will fall from the path. Therefore, the sutra says: To one-sidedly cultivate the merits of concentrative repose without practicing understanding is called dullness. To one-sidedly cultivate knowledge without practicing repose is called being crazed. Dullness and craziness, although they are somewhat different, are the same in that they both perpetuate an unwholesome perspective.”

The great irony here is that this “Zen Oblivion” is being sought by someone who depicts himself as the great barefoot runner, and talks frequently about things like being at one with the trails, running shirtless, & feeling the ground beneath his feet, all sentiments completely at odds with an escapist fantasy of “zen oblivion” and completely in tune with the intention of buddhist awareness, or stopping and seeing and being attentive to (and in acceptance of) reality, especially on an immediate level.

The Shinzen Young article can be found in an article called How Meditation Works.

Sierra Nevada Endurance Run

sierra nevada endurance races

6:30 am, sunrise over the American River, a big, wide, and real river, unlike, say, the San Gabriel River down here in Angeles Forrest, which as much as I like soaking my feet in it during a good hot run would barely qualify as a mountain stream anywhere else. This is the river of Sutter’s Mill, of the California gold rush.

All dusty singletrack, some of it technical, lots of short ups and downs, but no real climbs, basically flat until the 18.5 mile mark at the base of Cardiac Hill.

Singletrack races involve a bit of strategy at the beginning, especially for us middle of the pack runners. It’s difficult to pass on these trails, and runners need to get towards the front so as not to get blocked by slower runners or hill walkers. At the same time, you don’t want to go out too fast and burn out in the beginning.

I found a good pack to run with. We hit a good pace. A couple of the guys had run the course before and knew how to pace it.

I felt strong coming into Cardiac Hill. The folks I’d been running with had horror stories about it. 2,000 feet elevation gain in 3/4 of a mile a couple said, but I’d reviewed the course info and the hills I remember didn’t seem like they’d been any steeper than those I run regularly in the mountains here. It was early in the race still, and I decided to hold back, saving it up for the gnarly parts of the hill. It was a good hill but not really that steep, runnable even by me, and I started to wonder where the hard part was. I decided to run. I asked a woman on the trail how much further I had to the top. She said about 10 feet.

I think I forget that we are surrounded by mountains here, and I often run in them – averaging about 10,000 feet of climbing a week. It’s not Boulder, Co. down here, but it’s a lot closer to Boulder than most places are.

A few miles along a canal at the top, the big aid station with the drop bags, and then a long climb down to the turn around.

It was 102 degrees when we’d arrived in Roseville the day before, and at 5:00 am heading to the starting line it was humid and in the 70s. It promised to be a hot race, and that heat was kicking in.

I was climbing up to Robie Point, about 2 miles from the 25 mile turn around, when Maggie and I crossed. We talked for a moment. She said she was hurting, and I could tell from the puffiness in her cheeks that she’d been puking. She was leading the women, and in the top 10 overall.

I made it to the turn around at No Hands Bridge in 5 hours – good news – I could lose an hour on the return and still make the Western States 11 hour qualifying cut-off.

The climb back was tougher than I expected. The heat was getting to me. My feet were feeling funny, the soles burning. I changed into dry socks at my drop bag. As I left the aid station I felt the skin on my ankles was burning. The climb down Cardiac Hill was tough, the trail too technical for me to feel comfortable running hard, and my feet still burning. I passed a few folks. We’d lost a little more than half the runners at the turn around as they were running the 25 mile race and not the 50.

I checked the time at the bottom of the hill. It looked like I’d lost most of my one hour padding. I could still make the 11 hour cut off but I was going to need to run strong those last 19 miles. The problem was that I’d run out of strength. There was none of the cramping I’d suffered from so severely at Mt. Disappointment, even though it was hotter here and I could hear folks around me complaining of cramps. My quads were not killing me. I was just simply out of strength.

The Saturday before I’d gotten a voicemail with some bad news. The week had been difficult. I was emotionally wound up, and I hadn’t slept more than 5 hours a night. From a day-to-day life standpoint, I felt I’d handled it relatively well, but apparently not well enough to tack a 50 mile race on the end of it. I was tired, spent, the heat had done me in, and my mental state wasn’t good.

I can run a strong race out of joy. I can run a hard race driven by anger. Anxiety can fuel a fast pace. Sadness, however, is a slow emotion. It sucks the life out of everything. It had been a sad week, and spending hours on the trail more or less alone with my thoughts (and a weird case of burning feet) was not helping things.

Somewhere around mile 35 I gave up.

At mile 39, the aid station chief debated pulling me. He said I looked pasty, white. I’d been getting head rushes. I am a magnet for paramedics. It seems I always look near death during a race. I told the aid station chief I looked like I needed medical attention when I got out of bed in the morning. He chuckled unconvincingly, and I hustled out of there before he made up his mind.

Half a mile later I began regretting that decision.

7 miles to the last aid station, and it didn’t seem like I would ever get there. My run slowed to a brisk walk slowed to a plodding trudge. I tried to summon up some running, not because I wanted to finish sooner – I was finished already – but because I wanted it to end. I had no gps or watch, so I had no idea how much further I had to go. I’d hear cheers, and think the station was around the corner but it would always turn out to be people partying on boats down below in the river. I really would have so much rather been swimming in the river than running this race.

Finally I got to the 47.5 mile mark. It was next to a road. There were cars there. There seemed absolutely no point in even attempting to finish the race. I had no idea what time it was but based on where the sun was I felt confident that I’d been out there forever and wasn’t sure why I hadn’t been pulled for missing the cutoffs. I had a guy volunteer to drive me back to the finish, and had them fill up one of my bottles. I asked what time it was and how the little blond woman with the tattoos was doing. They told me the little short haired blond woman – Maggie – was winning, and that we were just a little over 11 hours into the race. The first bit of news delighted me and the second surprised me – I guessed it was closer to 13 hours. I decided to go on running. The station captain jogged along with me for about a quarter of a mile, and said she would send someone out to run/walk the rest of the way, if I wanted. I said yes, and thanked her.

I took off at the best pace I could manage, which wasn’t that bad, actually. My pacer caught up about a mile later.

My feet were on fire. I had a mile and a half left and saw no point in trying to run. I could barely walk.

She told me her story. She’d been running her first 50 miler. She’s a back-of-the-pack runner. About halfway between Robie and the turn around at No Hands Bridge, she was stopped by a bear and her cubs – the infamous Western States bear that dropped out of the trees and blocked second place runner Kami Semick only moments after winner Ellie Greenwood had taken the lead. My new friend was blocked on the path for about 10 minutes, which is the exact amount of time by which she missed the cutoff.

She urged me to run but I wasn’t having it. Oddly enough, from the time I’d given up about 11 miles back to the last half mile of the race, I had been passed by just a single runner – Kuni Yamagata, I later learned. Given that I was barely moving, this seemed completely unreasonable.

Two runners made their move in the last quarter mile. Race Director Juli Fingar came out to run one of them in. She told me Maggie had come in second. Folks were applauding and giving me that “Good Job!” cheer. Sh*t. I assured them it was not a good job but an epic fail. (After the race, I apologized for my bratty attitude to anyone I remembered had been encouraging me).

I crossed the line in a time that’s downright embarrassing, and remain startled to learn that this time was good enough for 2nd place in my age division. First place was Kuni Yamagata. Looking at the signups, my age division starting the race was a pretty tough one. I guess a lot of those guys ended up dropping. My second half was 2.5 hours slower than the first. Clearly I was not the only person struggling.

Maggie told me she’d started feeling ill at the 10 mile mark. She relinquished the lead at the bottom of Cardiac Hill on the return, with about 18 miles to go, but women’s winner Stephanie Finelli apparently did not make as much of a visual impression since the folks at every aid station told me the little short haired blond woman with the tattoos was winning.

I took off my shoes and calf guards. My legs were covered in red splotches where I’d felt the burning. Whatever it was, it was real – a bad reaction to something chemical. I can’t imagine what caused it. My feet seemed to have swollen two sizes and were bright red. Writing this race report a day later, it’s still there, and my feet are still burning.

There was pizza at the end of the race. I love pizza at the end of a race. I got the shakes like I had Parkinsons. Maggie’d had a bit of time to recover, so she wasn’t in as bad of shape. We chatted for a while with various characters and with my pacer for those last few miles, whose name I have sadly forgotten but for whom I am so grateful. We headed back to the hotel for more pizza, stopping at a 7-11 on the way to score some gatorade. We looked like a couple of bad alcoholic wrecks with the shakes. I’m kind of surprised that anyone would take my credit card.

An accomplished ultra runner, Julie Fingar runs Norcal Ultras which includes a number of really popular and well known races, including American River, one of the better known 50 milers, and Way Too Cool, which is one of the most popular 50K races in the country. Her events are well organized, look after the runners, and fairly low key. Most if not all are Western States qualifiers. Plus (and this is a big plus) you get a Patagonia tech shirt. I’m not really sure what the deal is with Patagonia – they use organic polyester or something, and have this crazy policy of making quality stuff and looking after their employees. Here’s what I know: most race tech shirts seem to be made by Brooks, which uses a special type of fabric guaranteed to chafe your nipples into bloody little stumps. This Patagonia shirt is pretty much the most comfortable shirt I’ve ever worn.

Maggie and I have already vowed to regroup and return next year, hopefully well rested, with no emotional baggage, no weird chemicals in our socks (well, actually, my socks, or whatever it was), vomiting issues dealt with, and we will kick ass a little better than we did this year. That will be easier for me since there’s so much more room for improvement. Maggie’s bad day is still good enough to win second place.

It was a good race, even though we each had our unique miserable experiences.

Black and White

Idyllwild Tree Bark

A year ago I was still running roads. An acquaintance of mine ran ultras. We became friends who became good friends who became even better friends, and, after a long time basically fighting it, we ended up lovers. She’s been at the center of my ultra running experience, brief as it thus far is. This year we’ve run nearly every race together, crewed friends together, crewed each other, and hung out at races as spectators and fans…

It’s always a drag when these things end, especially when they end so remotely, by voicemail. My cheap cellphone gave her soft apologetic message a weird metallic sound, & I was left standing in a parking lot in Griffith Park, phone in hand, the high from a beautiful run fading fast. I know myself well enough to realize that it wouldn’t really hit me until the next day. I thought about how our profound love of running is based at least in part on our difficulty dealing with others.

It’s not so much fun watching a person stress out to the point of illness, and realizing the source is apparently her relationship with you. That look of sadness and discomfort in her eyes is a profound bummer. It’s disappointing when you find yourselves getting combative over the things that brought you together in the first place.

In Idyllwild there are pine cones the size of human heads. I still can’t get over that. Here is some black and white film from that too short weekend.

Bob Holtel

Bob Holtel

Maggie and I took a run from Inspiration Point to to top of Mt. Baden Powell and back, part of the AC100 course, a little altitude and hill training for me, taking the opportunity to run and familiarize myself with the entire AC100 course, just in case…’Cause I intend to run this thing next year unless something completely unlikely happens and I end up running Western States instead…

There are other reasons to run this course. The main one is not about training or the pursuit of some great athletic/endurance endeavor, but for the fun of it. It’s beautiful. I love these mountains.

Mount Baden Powell is the high point of the AC100 course. It’s named after Lord Baden Powell, who is the guy who started the boyscouts. Due to his hatred of communism, Lord Baden Powell was also a Nazi sympathizer. A quote from his diary: “Lay up all day. Read Mein Kampf. A wonderful book, with good ideas on education, health, propaganda, organisation etc.”

I remember my scouting days. I did not particularly enjoy the closeness on particular halitosis afflicted Scout Master wanted ton have with me. I am suspicious of anyone who enjoys spending time with pre-pubescent young boys in little Aryan Youth military outfits.

Not too far into our run we crossed paths with Bob Holtel, who is nearing his 80th birthday and is hiking the PCT Trail from Canada to Mexico. 25 years ago, when he was a spritely 50-something, Bob was the first person to ever run the entire length of the Pacific Crest Trail, 2,650 miles of mountain trails along the Cascades, Sierras, San Gabriels, and whatever other mountains there are that take you from the Canadian border to the Mexican border.

Bob is doing this hike in two stages. The first half was done last summer. He’s on the second half now. The plan is for him to celebrate his 80th birthday with a finale in Campo, California

As we neared the top of Baden Powell, my head started to really ache. I’ve run at these altitudes before (although not often) but had a night at 5,500 feet to ease the adjustment. This time we drove straight there from near sea level, and I reached my limits. Maggie had just finished running Transrockies with her husband Bob. That 6 day stage run all takes place between 9,000 – 13,000 ft, so she was used it. During AC100, she found herself swooning a bit when she reached the top of Baden Powell. Altitude will do it. (It’s worth pointing out that Leadville, a 100 mile race at elevation in the Colorado Rockies has only twice been won by non-Colorado runners).

Idyllwild

Near Tahquitz Peak

Near Tahquitz Peak

I live in hills. These hills are pretty close to the center of LA, near Dodger Stadium, but they are hills.

When I moved in here my only complaint (and it was a small one) was that my view, somewhat spectacular through the trees, (but there are enough trees around me to obscure it except in the winter), is north, across Glendale, rather than south, with a panorama of LA.

On the other side of Glendale – the end of my view, not so far away – there are mountains. Two sets, in fact, one smaller and closer, and the other just behind them.

The closer set are the Verdugos.

A year ago, running in Griffith park and just starting to explore trails, I would ask people about the Verdugos. Had anyone run them? Did anyone know of any good routes? There was one guy, a barefoot runner who claimed to be an ultrarunner and a trail expert, who had heard of people running up there, but that was as close as I got to a yes. I looked ‘em up online, and discovered that Barefoot Ted used to run up there. Folks made it sounds like a fearsome wilderness crawling with mountain lions and really not so safe for humans.

Now I run in the Verdugos at least once a week, usually on Wednesday morning. There’s nothing terribly fearsome about them. Occasionally (frequently, actually) I come upon deer. Often enough I come upon rattlesnakes. Mostly I come upon hikers and mountain bikers.

Behind the Verdugos – the back of my horizon – a nearby horizon because I can’t see beyond the mountains – are the San Gabriels.

Nowadays, I prefer it that my view points away from the city.

I spend as much time as I can in the San Gabriels.

From my view here, I can barely make out a few peaks with cell and radio towers. I’ve run to those peaks, a bunch of times, and I run along the ridgeline all the time.

It looks so high up from down here. Cruising around in a car looking up at those mountains it’s hard for me to imagine that I regularly run to and then along the tops of them.

About 2 hours drive east of LA, between Hemet in Riverside County and Palm Desert in the desert, are the San Jacinto Mountains, and up in the mountains is the small town of Idyllwild, once an German themed ALpine tourist village, later a hippie hangout (Timothy Leary had his Brotherhood of Eternal Love HQ there), and now a peaceful mountain community and weekend getaway full of artists.

Idyllwild sits at about 5,000 ft. Kista and I spent a wonderful couple of days there. The first day we did a 20 mile run from the town up to Tahquitz Peak. It was a slow, easy run, with lots of stops to admire the scenery. I was in awe. There’s not much point trying to describe it – the pictures do a much better job, but even they are wholly inadequate compared to the reality of the place.

It was a pity we had to leave.

Mount Disappointment 50K

My shoes, after the race

Sat. August 13. This is said to be the toughest 50K in So. Cali. We started at the top of Mt. Wilson, headed down, up down, up, down, up… 7,403 feet of climbing says my Garmin. Probably a dozen stream crossings. Long exposed climbs.

Because AC100 had traditionally been held in September, and because the Mount Disappointment course covers a lot of the same course (except in the opposite direction), Mt. D has been popular with AC100 runners. Past AC100 winner Jorge Pacheco has won Mt. D a number of times. This year’s AC100 winner Dominic Grossman has also posted one of the fastest Mt. D times. This year, however, with the new AC100 July 23rd date, the races were only 3 weeks apart, and most of the AC100 crowd runners were there to spectate instead. Pacheco (who dropped at mile 75 of AC100) was running the race. Diana Treister, George Velasco, Andy Kumeda, Sean O’Brien, and a handful of other AC100 runners were also there to run.

My friend and running partner Maggie Beach, who came in 2nd at AC100, had decided to drop and focus on recovery. She’d also run Western States 100 a month before AC100, and crewed/paced at Badwater in between those two. Her legs needed a rest.

A couple of days before the race she emailed me. “Enough of this recovery shit. Time to put on my big girl shorts and race. Can I ride with you?”

I picked Maggie up at 4:30 and we headed out to Mt. Wilson. Sunrise is particularly beautiful up there.

And we were off.

The first stretch was a 2.5 mile downhill on the paved Mt Wilson road, before turning off onto Valley Forge Trail down to Gabrielino Trail. Valley Forge is a beautiful soft loose dirt singletrack that heads down, sometimes a bit steeply. It’s wooded, and the latticework of light and shadows from the sun through the trees has proven visually challenging for me.

My recent runs have had me getting close to the ground on numerous occasions, and downright splat on a few. The last splat was a bad one, on the top of the Valley Forge trail during a Mt. Disappointment training run. I was determined not to take any spills this early and ran the downhill much more conservatively than I once would have.

Somewhere around the 3 mile mark I started cramping. By the time I got to Newcombe’s Saddle I’d had pretty much every cramp but menstrual cramps…(and I think I started my period on the climb up to Shortcut). I’d been ill a bit the days before and started the race dehydrated and with an electrolyte imbalance, and there was no amount of stuff I could drink that was gonna change that. I was popping salt pills like pez candy…to no avail.

Maggie was waiting at Newcombe’s Saddle. She hadn’t recovered yet from her 2nd place AC100 finish, and racing was probably a dumb idea. After taking a spill during one of the stream crossings and realizing that she really wasn’t sufficiently recovered, Maggie dropped and spent the next few hours helping at the aid station. Katie Desplinter (AC100 4th place woman) had been out for a run in the mountains and ended up stopping to volunteer at Newcombe’s Saddle as well.

People were passing me on the downhills, and I was passing them on the climbs, climbs I actually looked forward to, which is proof that reality had been turned assbackwards, ’cause that is not the way things work, except maybe in an alternate universe.

The climb up to Shortcut Saddle was 3,000 feet in 6 miles under blazing sun. Including the run down from Newcombe’s Saddle, it was the longest stretch between aid stations – 6 miles to a water only station, 9 miles to Shortcut Saddle. I’d run this stretch with Kista a few weeks earlier, so I knew what to expect. I powerwalked most of the uphill, and passed a bunch of people.

Shortcut Saddle was the 24 mile mark. From Shortcut came 4 miles of downhill on Silver Moccasin Trail. This is a beautiful stretch, but it’s a desolate beauty – this is burn area. It was also completely exposed and blazing hot. I ran this section as hard as I could without getting crazy. My left quad gave out and I took a quick and insignificant spill.

The next section involved about 8 stream crossings. Running was difficult because you couldn’t find much of a rhythm before the next stream crossing, and a lot of us were reduced to a walk, something I heard others complain about but which I didn’t mind as my legs had finally given out.

By the climb up Kenyon Devore, I was passing Search and Rescue guys as much as I was passing other runners. Everything was cramping and spazzing. Runners were sprawled on the trail. I concluded that there were a handful of people to blame for my predicament, got very pissed off at them for not having let me drop in the weeks before the race. I fueled an extremely painful climb with that anger. I couldn’t wait to get to the finish so I could tell them all to f*ck themselves.

There’s a spot where you round a corner and suddenly hear the hum of the generators from Mt. Wilson. At that point, the trail slopes gently down for about a half a mile just before the finish – one of the course’s few mercies. I’d intended to run this stretch but after about 50 meters I had to alter a stride slightly to evade a rock and couldn’t pull it off without kicking off muscle spasms. I was gonna have to walk that last stretch. I still managed to pass a few folks.

Maggie was there at the trailhead to cheer me on. Jorge Pacheco was too, I’m told, but I was too tired to notice. Kista, Luis, Pier, Drew, and the Beach kids were all at the finish line cheering.

Needless to say, Jorge Pacheco won, (and, I suspect, had a much easier time winning than I did finishing somewhere in the middle of the pack).

Everyone but Kista headed home. She helped me fill up with liquids, salt, and food, to stop the cramping enough that we could drive home. This ended up taking about 4 hours, during which time I watched a number of folks I’d passed in the last 10 miles straggling across the line 2 or 3 hours after I did.

When the race officially ended, there were still about 20 people on the course…and this was a race we needed to qualify for. Pacheco and Mari were still at the trail head cheering the last runners in. He spent more time doing that than he did running.

One of the things I love about these races are the people. Badwater Ben was there, taking photos. Fred Pollard, who has run nearly 100 ultras and didn’t start until he was 62 years old was there as a volunteer. (Fred was also the cook at Shortcut Saddle aid station for AC100). AC100 winner Dominic Grossman was there, as was his AC100 finisher girlfriend Katie Desplinter, who had been out on a run and ended up volunteering at Newcombe’s Saddle. Keira Henninger was at Redbox helping out, cheering folks on, and, mostly, supporting her boyfriend, who was running the race. Jimmy Dean Freeman was also there, cheering on everyone, but especially cheering on his wife Kate, who finished 2nd. The So Cali ultrarunners not racing were there as volunteers or just as cheerleaders. It is a wonderful community we have here.

The awards ceremony was held early so that the winners didn’t need to wait around. Along with the awards ceremony was a kid’s run. I’m not sure how long it was – I think it was just the final climb to the top. Smoky the Bear was there to entertain and educate and their swag bags were full of Smokey the Bear stuff. Maggie’s husband Bob came up with their 3 kids and then left them with Maggie and ran home, 20 something miles, all down hill, which turned out to be a great thing because he was finally able to experience trashed quads.

In the end, it didn’t suck and I didn’t cuss anyone out. I had modest ambitions for this race and came close enough to hitting them.

The day after the race, my old coach from the road running days cornered an ultrarunning friend and chastised her for running in the heat. She tried to explain that ultrarunning, especially on trails in the mountains at elevation during the heat of midday is somewhat different from an 18 minute 5K at sea level on roads, but it wasn’t registering with this guy. I hope no beginning ultra runner is foolish enough to listen to his bad advice. Ultra-training 101: train for (and under) the conditions of the race. If it’s a mountain race, train in the mountains. If it’s going to be run at altitude, train at altitude. If there’s going to be heat, train in the heat. To do otherwise is going to result in failure. I’ll bet some of the folks being carried off the course by Sierra Madre Search & Rescue would have a bit to say to this fool. Oh well.

Mt. Disappointment Test Runs #2 & #3

Kista, Moeben Badwater sleeves

I’d run the Mt. Disappointment training run a few weeks back, crashed at about the 3 mile mark, and did the rest in pain. I decided to have another go at it.

Not knowing what she was getting into, Kista joined me. The climb up back up Mt. Wilson on Kenyon Devore trail was more than she was ready for. 3,000 feet in a little less than 3 miles is steep, and combined with a little altitude & slippery switchbacks, it can suck the life out of you.

I decided to do the run again on Sunday, thinking that without an injury or a struggling running partner I could get a feel for that last climb.

The verdict is that I liked it better when I was injured or Kista was bonking because under those conditions I felt like I had an excuse. Truth is, I can barely walk that stretch. It’s brutal. Every time I attempt it, I get about 1 mile in and decide that I am not going to run Mt. D.

Mt. D. veteran Sheri assures me that the Kenyon Devore stretch will be littered with bonking runners on race day. As long as I am not one of them, I’ll consider it a win. Additionally, in order to not psyche myself out, I intend to run sans Garmin. If I have no idea what my time is, I will have no idea where I am relative to whatever time is my goal and won’t feel like quitting if I’m too far off it.

Here are a few shots from the two runs.



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